Orisson to Roncesvalles (Roncevaux if ya wanna be French!)

Ok..had the most amazing afternoon watching the sheep and cows on the hills on a picture perfect Friday the 13th.  Slept as I said in my loverly little tent in the middle of the mountains...incredible. 

When we all got up there was again fabulous bread for breakfast with the most delicious butter and strawberry jam.  Then came the coffee...in bowls, lovely large bowls of hot coffee with hot milk!  The hospitlero made damn sure we got out of there in time though as he had to prepare for the next round. 

Just as I crawled out of the tent, following one last look see to make sure I had everything, it began to rain.  We knew the weather wasn´t going to be good, but had no idea how cold and wet it would get later.  So on an up the mountain, continuing to follow the Route Napoleon.  Higher and higher, past yet more sheep.  Including a sheep skull smiling back at me, after someone arranged it artfully by the side of the road.

Somewhere near the top I had to stop as my socks were really sodden.  Sitting there two more German ladies, Sylvie and Betty came by, and then we kept company for the rest of the way.  Our speed seemed to mesh and it was nice to have someone to walk with especially so high up in the rain and darn near sleet. 

Eventually we came to an emergency hut on the side of the mountain, and had about 8 of us women all crammed in together laughing and helping eachother get rearranged to stay warmer drier and safer.  One of them had heard there might actually be snow in the pass the following day, meaning probably no pilgrims would get thru, at least on on the Route Napoleon.

This route then eventually drops down thru the most amazing incredible beech forest.  The path there gets really step and was very slow going in the rain.  But with my two friends we actually had a great time.  There was fog amongs the trees and inspite of the cold it was incredibly beatuiful. 

We have noticed on thing though.  The Spanish seem to be a bit loose and free with some of their mileage signs.  We passed at least two signs, quite some distance apart mind you, that said Roncevaux, 2 hours 15 minutes further.  ´´Course now that´s gotten to be quite the joke, "its only 2.15  hours further on!"

Roncesvalles suddenly appears as you come around the bend in the path...thinking it´ll never appear.  We got to stay in the brand spanking new Alburge, which while immaculate and very well set up, lacks the personality of the old one.  The pilgrim menu was forgettable but filling.  The pilgrim company was unforgetable. 

In the morning I set out with Betty and Sylvie for Zubiri.  We had a bit of a rough go on some of the hills, as Betty had some serious leg issues, but she pushed thru and we made it in good time.  But not good enough!  The first Alburge was compleat...no room in the in!  So thank God, we only had to go around the corner.  While this place was smaller and a bit more expensive (15€) it had free internet and breakfast (I´m paying about 1.5 right now!) it was close to a wash as far as cost.  

Dinner for me, being a bit more cost aware, was a beer and two plates of tapas.  Zubiri is quite the working town and doesn´t really have much to offer, exept a cure for rabies should you need it!  Apparently the legend goes that if an animal passes over the old bridge it is sure not to ever get rabies.  So guess that might count for pilgrims?  Sure hope so.